Making Connections' E/P Project

Friday 9 May 2008

5

Attending the Thesis Collections Presentations at Parsons was a great experience, from which I believe a learned a lot. If Parsons is any indicator of what's going on in the New York fashion industry, then what we've been told about it is mostly true, and not at all just a bunch of clichés: New York fashion is mostly based on sales figures and productivity, and design students are taught that from the start. Clearly, many of them played it safe when it came to colors and fabrics, experimenting with shapes instead.

I thought their collections' level was incredible: most of the clothes could have been boutique-ready, and the young creators were all but naive about them. They knew all about their garments, from specific terminology to fabrics' specifications, and when asked further questions about production, retail prices and customers, they would not find themselves unprepared and kept a professional profile.

What really caught my attention, however, was how from some very abstract inspirations, most students could still develop collections that were made to sell: from architecture to literature, the public could see ideas and concepts come to life in the shape of beautifully constructed garments, often ready to hit the stores.

This shows a lot not only about the professional attitude of the young New Yorkers, but also of their creativity, and how the school channels it into a productive process. My opinion is that New York fashion may be made to sell in a way creative Londoners do not accept easily, but it is fashion one would want to wear, it mixes desirability with creativity with success, and I believe this is what clothes should always be about.

For what concerns the project itself, it was a great pleasure to be a part of it, as I believe experiencing first-hand is the best way to learn. In fact, I was told a million times by many sources how New York fashion was all about business, but what did I know about what really was behind it? It was only by getting on that plane and in that Parsons auditorium, listening to those students' efforts and ideas development and then to the panel's comments and criticism that I really understood what lies behind a successful design process and what brings a dress on sale at Barney's and leaves a hundred other models dusting in a designer's studio.

What I felt the project was at time lacking was an official nature: the designers were obviously living their big moment, and the E/P project was probably the last thing on their mind at the time. Probably an official get-together and a more defined agenda would have helped us journalists get even closer to the designers and explore their work and creative process better.

Sunday 6 April 2008

WHEN IN LONDON...

Dover Street Market: the best place to browse through avant-garde fashion in a market-like megastore.

Selfridges: a classic, huge, designer-based department store.

St. Cristopher's Place: for a surreal experience. Think walking on the busiest street of the city (that is, Oxford Street) and then suddenly turning into a small, peaceful lane. You'll think you've entered a magic world (there are also nice shops, from Mulberry to Marimekko).

Liberty's: as far as department stores go, this is a very luxurious and decadent one. I am in love with their stationery and flowers.

Maison Bertaux and Shop: located in SoHo, it's a patisserie upstairs, quirky independent boutique downstairs. and the clothes come in cake packaging.

Beyond the Valley: behind Carnaby Street, a small curiosity shop selling objects and fashion from young graduates.

Paul Smith: for the ultimate classics with a modern twist.

Borough Market: proably the best food market of the city, in an area surrounded by small cafès and restaurants (there is a small Paul Smith shop in the proximity of the market which is my favourite).

Shipp's Tearoom: drink tea from mismatched cups and plates, indulge in their homemade cakes and simply be amazed at the loveliness of the place (I suggest their scone with cream and strawberry jam).

Tate Modern: some interesting exhibitions from time to time, but if there's nothing on it's still nice to visit the building and spend a lot of money on small things from the bookshop.

The Design Museum: the museum is very good, of course, but you should also go for the river-front location, the design shop and the Conditor and Cook cakes at the cafè.

The Victoria and Albert Museum: affectionately called "V&A" by all, this museum has a must-visit fashion department, seasonal exhibitions and shop.

The Barbican: one of the most inspiring sets of buildings in the city (you'll want to move to one of the apartments), and a cultural center with a cinema and cutting-edge exhibitions.

The River: a walk on the river on a sunny day (either early morning or late afternoon), from the Tate to the London Eye is a must.

Cornucopia: sadly on its way to closure, this vintage shop located in the Pimlico area is run by an old man who's happy to help customers rummage through the many treasures this small and packed shop holds.

Rellik: still vintage, but with a completely different twist. This shop is big, luminous and its racks are neatly filled with designers' gems from decades past.

Magma: in the proximity of Covent Garden, two shops, one selling the best art and design books, the other selling a selection of products ranging from canvas bags to stationery to plates. For the design-maniacs.

Brick Lane: although the east London area it's becoming so overrated it's actually ridiculous, it is still interesting to go. On Sundays it is packed with tourists and wannabe-hipsters it's hard to walk through, but there are many more things than on weekdays: from markets selling young, independent designers' creations to vintage shops (try the neighboring Cheshire Street) to cutting-edge fashion. And the 24-hours bagel shop is probably the best place to eat with £2.

Camden: it might be clichè, but no visit to London is complete without a trip to Camden and some punk-sightseeing. I'd recommend getting lost in the Camden Lock, browsing through the most improbable items from neon disco clothes to life-sized wood statues.

Arancina: when walking to Portobello Road from Notting Hill Gate, in a sea of cheap takeaways and Starbuck's Coffe shops, this is a sight for sore eyes. Devoted to the typical Sicilian dish, this small cafè will catch your attention for the bright orange Fiat 500 in its window and the delicious-looking (i can assure the taste is as delicious) pizza.

Hummingbird Bakery: this might not be as exciting for New Yorkers as it is for us Londoners (after all, the idea came from your very own Magnolia Bakery), but this little jewel of a coffee shop sells the best icing-covered cakes of the city. I'd suggest the Kensington branch as it is less crowded, but if you are in the Portobello area and the crowds are making you sick, stop for a red velvet cupcake. Then, if you can make it, walk down the road to the Electric cinema: it's a beautiful building worth seeing.

Macaron: if you happen to take a trip down south to Clapham, this is a necessary destination. Think small french bakery with extremely creative cakes, classic macaroons and a wide selection of teas and chocolate. You might then want to take a walk and explore the area, after all it's home to British fashion queen Vivienne Westwood.

I also recommend The Lo-Fi Guide of London: a Lomo-photographed guide of the less obvious London.

Wednesday 12 March 2008

3

New York as a fashion capital.

I can't say i know enough about it. I know what i see on magazines and websites, and what i have occasionally heard.

What intrigues me about New York comes from the image designers showcase on the catwalk. The New York Fashion Woman is powerful, but does not need power dressing to show it.

I have been following the work of designers such as Yigal Azrouel and Alexander Wang for a few seasons now, and I am utterly fascinated by the woman they present: not obsessed with her body, but a natural beauty. Their clothes seem suitable for work, free time, evening. These American women are elegant, but I admire the fact that they can still be fresh and authentic in their outfits and overall appearance. I like N.Y. fashion week's simple combinations of colors and fabrics which still manage to be fresh and inspirational.

I must say that I prefer this simple showcase to the messy flamboyancy of London and even to the polished elegance of Milan (with Prada as an exception, I have a thing for Miuccia's fashion philosophy!).

I have been to New York before, and I have loved the easy navigability of Manhattan, laid back attitude of Brooklyn and chaos of Queens, but this time I am thrilled to explore its fashion and style, visit its boutiques, stare at beautifully outfitted locals (if The Sartorialist is one to trust) and learn about this mysterious (to me) fashion industry.

Friday 7 March 2008

MY PIECE IN N.E.E.T. MAGAZINE

I have been a huge fan of N.E.E.T. since the very first issue, so it's obviously a pleasure to be in it!

For the March issue i interviewed 5 fashion bloggers from all over Europe:

You can click on the pictures to see a bigger version, or you can read it all here.

Sunday 2 March 2008

2

When looking at "my fashion capital", London, I can't help but consider "my other fashion capital", that is, Milan.

With London, I absolutely admire its fashion system for one thing: the way it is open to the young, up-and-coming names.

British fashion is known worldwide for a few names: on one side, Burberry, Aquascutum, Paul Smith, emblems of classic and timeless elegance, and, on the other side, Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen, enfants terribles of Britain, with their unlimited creativity and at times outrageous styles. Yet, (some of) these names moved to other capitals to show their collections, leaving London in the hands of the youths: Christopher Kane, Gareth Pugh, Giles Deacon, just to mention the most famous of the London designers, have the city all to themselves, for a whole week in which they are the main attraction.

To me, this opening to the new names is what makes London really unique.

On the other hand, Milan is quite the opposite. New names never get the space they deserve, and the fashion council organizes the schedule to accommodate the foreign editors who don't want to spend a long time in the city, and therefore cram the first few days with the big names, leaving the younger designers at the end of the week, when nobody is really interested in going to their shows anymore. This is the main reason why Italian fashion has got to a point where there are no new names surfacing: that and the fact that the whole system is based on money and productivity (it was, after all, a fashion system born with the industrialization), so the big guns are obviously favoured.

Style.com's Nancy MacDonell once said to me:

"Editors and buyers go to Milan to see beautiful, wearable
clothes; they go to London to look for trends and fresh talent"

And I think that sums the two cities up perfectly.

The Business of Fashion takes this analysis a step further, entering a third term of comparison - New York - and thus giving a very clear yet simplified idea of where the fashion weeks stand:

"While London is often the spark of new ideas and New York is confidently commercial, the Milan shows usually sit somewhere in between. They may not be the pushing the limits of fashion in terms of new ideas, but they specialise in striking the right balance between commerce and creativity."

--

However, I can't talk about fashion and not mention streetstyle. I think people in London are either losing the sense of what's appropriate, or they are losing their minds. Everybody keeps on going on about how people in London are unique and incredibly well dressed. I think that lately everybody is trying so hard to be unique that they are not well dressed anymore. Londoners are so busy trying to be unique that they forgot what it means to be stylish. And as an ex-London-style-lover, I am very sorry for this. When Facehunter lived in Paris, I loved his blog and payed it many a visit every day. Now that he moved to London, its pictures hold no appeal to me anymore, as in every shot I recognize the typical Londoner: layers over layers of poor quality vintage mixed with Primark and scruffy hair. Another favourite of mine, The Sartorialist, never pays London a visit, and I do understand him. He spends his time shooting fabulous New Yorkers and has a penchant for Milan- and Florence-based bourgeoisie, with their fuss-free style, polished appearance and natural elegance: what could he see in the Londoner who tries too hard?

I certainly don't regret moving to London to study, as its embracing attitude towards young talent allowed me to experience the fashion industry first hand. This wouldn't have been possible in a city such as Milan, where students are not taken seriously at all in the industry.

Tuesday 5 February 2008

1

When all of my friends got sick of my many questions (or, of my applying the 5 journalistic W to daily life), I realized that my future was to be a journalist. I must however say that what really interests me most is to look at society, people and trends, and analyze them through my writing.

As an Italian student living and studying in London, the international side of fashion has become of great interest to me. After moving to London and taking a closer look at the fashion industry, I soon realized how there is so much more than the clothes when we consider fashion, and I was therefore highly motivated to discover it all. While in the U.K., I tried to take full advantage of the opportunities London had to offer, and I did so by interning at a variety of publications. I went from a small independent magazine (Amelia’s) to an established national newspaper (The Guardian) to a unique fashion periodical (Intersection) and, finally, to exploring travel writing at a world-famous design magazine (Wallpaper*). All of these experiences helped me get an idea of what the London (fashion) publishing scene is like, and to learn how to behave in a job.

After almost three years in London, I am planning to move back to Milan to find a job. I have been lucky enough to interview Vogue Italia’s Franca Sozzani last November, and since she mentioned the possibility for me to intern at the magazine after I graduate, I haven’t been able to think about anything else. Although an internship at Vogue is on top of my dreams, I must however confess that their writing is not always that brilliant (while most of their editorials are, if a bit daring at times), so I hope to eventually find job at one of the periodicals published by either Rizzoli or L’Espresso. In fact, these two publishers produce publications that in the Italian fashion periodicals scene have a unique approach to writing, and do exactly what I am passionate about: analyze society, its habits, its flaws, in an impeccably presented way.

Should this not work, I will be more than happy to keep doing what has lately become an obsession of mine: blogging. In fact, after opening an Italian fashion blog, Pillole Di Moda, about a year ago, I have hardly been able to stop writing. What I do in my blog is what I hope to do in the future: analyze trends with a personal point of view; engage myself in a divertissement about fashion, design, lifestyle and society altogether.

In the meantime, taking part to this project with Parsons is a further chance for me to compare fashion industries: London and New York, with hints of Milan. What I hope this project will be, however, is the future of all of us: the designers of tomorrow meet the journalists of tomorrow, our careers start here.

Monday 4 February 2008

Other E/P Project Members' Blogs

Making Connections' E/P Project - Rosa M. Bertoli